How Mary Phelps Jacob Invented the Modern Backless Brassiere
A 1914 patent by Mary Phelps Jacob that replaced heavy, rigid corsets with a lightweight, two-handkerchief design to support the bust.
Original patent title: “Brassiere.”
A 1914 patent by Mary Phelps Jacob that replaced heavy, rigid corsets with a lightweight, two-handkerchief design to support the bust. Granted to MARY P JACOB in 1914 with 3 forward citations, and it is now in the public domain.
Key facts
Coverage
What does this patent actually cover?
The invention provides a lightweight garment for supporting the breasts using two silk handkerchiefs and ribbon straps. It replaces the rigid, whalebone-stiffened corsets common in the early 20th century. The design allows for a more natural silhouette and greater freedom of movement by using soft materials that conform to the body rather than forcing the body into a rigid shape.
The gap
What does this patent NOT cover?
- Does not cover modern underwire construction techniques.
- Does not cover elastic synthetic fabrics like spandex or elastane.
- Does not cover molded cup designs or foam padding.
These exclusions are unique to PatentBrief — derived from the actual claim language, not patent-office boilerplate.
What made this novel
The innovation was the shift from structural rigidity to soft, flexible support using simple, readily available materials like handkerchiefs and ribbons.
The Patent Drawing
Schematic visualization of the patent's claim structure. Hand-drawn diagrams in progress for each landmark patent.
Where you've seen this
Real-world examples
Early 20th-century soft-cup brassieres
Handkerchief-style bralettes
Why it matters
The bigger picture
This patent marks the transition from the restrictive Victorian-era corset to the modern brassiere. It liberated women from heavy, uncomfortable undergarments and paved the way for the multi-billion dollar intimate apparel industry.
Filed
February 12, 1914
Granted
November 3, 1914
Market context
Who's building on this
Companies in this space
The foundation laid by this patent evolved into the global intimate apparel industry, now dominated by companies like HanesBrands and Victoria's Secret. These companies continue to iterate on the basic concept of soft, supportive undergarments.
Market impact
This patent helped trigger the decline of the corset industry and established the brassiere as a standard garment. It demonstrated that functional clothing could be both comfortable and effective, shifting consumer demand toward lighter, more flexible apparel.
Claim 1 — Plain English
What this patent covers
The invention provides a lightweight garment for supporting the breasts using two silk handkerchiefs and ribbon straps. It replaces the rigid, whalebone-stiffened corsets common in the early 20th century. The design allows for a more natural silhouette and greater freedom of movement by using soft materials that conform to the body rather than forcing the body into a rigid shape.
The clever bit
The innovation was the shift from structural rigidity to soft, flexible support using simple, readily available materials like handkerchiefs and ribbons.
What it does not cover
- Does not cover modern underwire construction techniques.
- Does not cover elastic synthetic fabrics like spandex or elastane.
- Does not cover molded cup designs or foam padding.
Patent Journey
From filing to expiry
PatentBrief Score
Impact Score
Limited data
Citation count
12/40
Early citations
Claim breadth
0/20
Narrow claimsclaimsThe numbered statements at the end of a patent that legally define what the inventor owns.Read more →
Recency
0/20
Older than 20 years
Assignee scale
0/20
Independent or smaller assigneeassigneeThe entity that owns the patent — usually the inventor's employer or a company.Read more →
PatentBrief Impact Score — based on citation count, claim breadth, recency, and assignee scale. Not a legal assessment.
Heuristic Value Estimate
What this patent might be worth
$7K – $21K
Midpoint $13K · expired or expiring · industry ×2.2
Heuristic only — blends forward/backward citation counts, claim scope, time remaining, litigation history, and CPC-derived industry baseline. Real valuations need a professional appraisal.
Concepts involved
Citations
Patent lineage
Cite this patent
Jacob, M. P. (1914). How Mary Phelps Jacob Invented the Modern Backless Brassiere (U.S. Patent No. 1,115,674). U.S. Patent and Trademark Office. https://patentbrief.org/patent/us/1115674/brassiere-mary-phelps-jacob
Auto-generated from the patent record. Double-check author order and the issue date against the official USPTO document before submitting.
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Common Questions
Frequently Asked Questions
What does How Mary Phelps Jacob Invented the Modern Backless Brassiere cover?
A 1914 patent by Mary Phelps Jacob that replaced heavy, rigid corsets with a lightweight, two-handkerchief design to support the bust.
Who owns patent US 1115674?
MARY P JACOB owns this patent, granted in 1914.
When does this patent expire?
This patent has expired and is now in the public domain — anyone can use the invention freely.
What is patent US 1115674 cited by?
This patent has been cited by 3 later patents that build on its ideas.
What problem does this patent solve?
This patent marks the transition from the restrictive Victorian-era corset to the modern brassiere. It liberated women from heavy, uncomfortable undergarments and paved the way for the multi-billion dollar intimate apparel industry.
What does this patent NOT cover?
Does not cover modern underwire construction techniques.
Patent monitoring