How Mary Phelps Jacob Invented the Modern Backless Brassiere

A 1914 patent by Mary Phelps Jacob that replaced heavy, rigid corsets with a lightweight, two-handkerchief design to support the bust.

What it covers

The invention provides a lightweight garment for supporting the breasts using two silk handkerchiefs and ribbon straps. It replaces the rigid, whalebone-stiffened corsets common in the early 20th century. The design allows for a more natural silhouette and greater freedom of movement by using soft materials that conform to the body rather than forcing the body into a rigid shape.

What it doesn't cover

• —Does not cover modern underwire construction techniques.
• —Does not cover elastic synthetic fabrics like spandex or elastane.
• —Does not cover molded cup designs or foam padding.

The clever bit

The innovation was the shift from structural rigidity to soft, flexible support using simple, readily available materials like handkerchiefs and ribbons.

Why it matters

This patent marks the transition from the restrictive Victorian-era corset to the modern brassiere. It liberated women from heavy, uncomfortable undergarments and paved the way for the multi-billion dollar intimate apparel industry.

Real-world examples

• 1.Early 20th-century soft-cup brassieres
• 2.Handkerchief-style bralettes