How to Make Stable, High-Water Content Skin Creams

A recipe for creating stable skin lotions that are mostly water but feel like rich, oily creams by using specific silicone emulsifiers and carefully balanced oils.

What it covers

This patent describes a way to mix a large amount of water (at least 80% of the total weight) into an oil-based cream without the mixture separating. Usually, oil and water don't like to mix, but the inventors use specific 'interface-active' substances—specifically alkylmethicone or alkyldimethicone copolyols—to act as a bridge between the two. The oil phase is carefully chosen to have a specific 'polarity' (a measure of how the oil molecules interact with water) between 20 and 30 mN/m. This allows the product to remain a thin, spreadable liquid (with a viscosity under 5000 mPa·s) while still delivering the benefits of a moisturizing cream.

What it doesn't cover

• —Does not cover emulsions where the water content is less than 80% by weight.
• —Does not cover oil phases with a polarity outside the specific 20-30 mN/m range.
• —Does not cover creams that are thick, paste-like, or have a viscosity higher than 5000 mPa·s.
• —Does not cover emulsions that use standard emulsifiers not listed as alkylmethicone or alkyldimethicone copolyols.

The clever bit

The invention relies on the precise tuning of the oil phase's polarity to match the silicone emulsifiers, allowing for a stable, low-viscosity emulsion even when water makes up the vast majority of the product.

Why it matters

Consumers often want the light, cooling feel of water-based products but the long-lasting moisturizing effects of oil-based creams. This patent provided a technical framework for Beiersdorf to create high-water-content products that don't feel greasy or heavy, which is a staple in modern skincare formulations. It helps manufacturers balance the 'fresh' sensory experience of water with the performance of lipids.

Real-world examples

• 1.Lightweight facial lotions
• 2.Hydrating body mists
• 3.Oil-in-water style skin serums